Boxer Heart Warning
Article written by Wendy Wallner, DVM
ACEPROMAZINE (ACP) WARNING
There is one drug used in anaesthetic protocols that should not
be used in the boxer. That drug is Acepromazine, a tranquilliser
that is often used as a preanesthetic agent. In the boxer it tends
to cause a problem called first degree heart block, a potentially
serious arrhythmia of the heart. It also causes a profound hypotension
(severe lowering of the blood pressure) in many boxers that are
given the drug.
Recently on the Veterinary Information Network, a computer network
for practicing veterinarians, an announcement was placed in the
cardiology section entitled "Acepromazine and Boxers."
This described several adverse reactions to the drug in a very
short time span at a Veterinary Teaching Hospital. All the adverse
reactions were in boxers. The reactions included collapse, respiratory
arrest and profound bradycardia (slow heart rate, less than 60
beats per minute). The announcement suggested that acepromazine
should not be used in dogs of the boxer breed because of breed
related sensitivity to the drug.
This drug is the most commonly prescribed tranquillizer in veterinary
medicine. It is also used orally and is prescribed for owners
who want to tranquillise their dogs for air travel. I would strongly
recommend that boxer owners avoid the use of this drug, especially
when the dog will be unattended and/or unable to receive emergency
medical care if it is needed.
My first introduction to Raw Feeding came in
2006 when, after trying many different kibble products on a female
of mine who was showing alarming signs of allergic reactions that
I could not get under control; my friend Monique Hodgkinson of
Tanyati Boxers, suggested I try it out. She had been using if
for some months by then, and highly recommended it.
I was quite desperate by this time, as my female
was getting worse and ended up with a really nasty wet eczema
around her neck.
I immediately put her onto a raw diet, and within
2 weeks the eczema had almost disappeared. That did it for me;
I was sold, and have not looked back since. I then moved all my
dogs onto it, and my old boy Tigger, who had Mast Cell Cancer,
had a wonderful new lease of life, as he trimmed down to a more
healthy and appropriate weight through the diet. I keep all my
females on the raw diet throughout their pregnancies and raise
all my puppies on it too.
I feed raw meaty bones/whole carcasses –
mostly chicken as that is what is readily available to me. This
is mixed with a small variety of vegetables. I also include green
tripe, lungs, hearts, liver, kidneys, chicken necks, heads &
feet, as part of their diet. Eggs in their shells, pigs trotters
and also whole fish every now and then.
Green tripe is by the far the most popular meal with my dogs,
what makes green tripe so good? Firstly, tripe has a calcium-phosphorus
ratio of 1:1, which is great for dogs. It has a relatively low
fat content, along with good amounts of essential fatty acids.
Potassium, vitamins, magnesium. And beyond the chemical compositions
of tripe, the food contains good amounts of lactobacillus acidophilus
which we know as a pro-biotic and this helps the digestion.
The other reason I am pro the feeding of tripe, and it is certainly
not it’s smell!! Is that it’s other benefits are the
over-all health improvement, reduced skin problems, shinier coats,
better teeth, stronger muscles, better digestion. I recently had
a youngster that I bred come to stay with me over Christmas, he
is a real fussy eater, and because he doesn’t have a doggy
companion at home at the moment, he has no competition for food,
and this is just making the situation worse. Well, he went wild
when I fed him tripe, not only did he remain at his bowl, till
every last piece was finished, but he went to everyone else’s
bowl. So, if you have fussy eaters give it a try.
Depending on which country you live in will be depend on how easily
you can obtain certain meat. However you will find there are many
suggested ways and many suppliers to help you on how to prepare
a diet that suits you and your dogs.
There are many websites on Raw feeding; I have
listed a few below.
Official Breed Standard
of The Kennel Union of Southern Africa
Courtesy SABOX website www.saboxer.co.za
For the full Standard visit www.saboxer.co.za
BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY: The small, so called
Brabant Bullenbeisser is regarded as the immediate ancestor of
the Boxer. In the past, the breeding of these Bullenbeissers was
in the hands of the huntsmen, whom they assisted during the chase.
Their task was to seize the game put up by chasing hounds and
hold it firmly until the huntsman arrived and put an end to the
prey. For this job the dog had to have as wide jaws as possible
with broadly spaced teeth, in order to bite firmly and hold on
tightly. A Bullenbeisser which had these characteristics was best
suited to this job and was used for breeding. Previously only
the ability to work and utilization were considered. Selective
breeding was carried out which produced a dog with a wide muzzle
and an upturned nose.
GENERAL APPEARANCE: The Boxer is a medium sized,
smooth coated, sturdy dog of compact square build and strong bone.
His muscles are taut, strongly developed and moulded in appearance.
His movement is lively, powerful with noble bearing. The Boxer
must be neither cumbersome or heavy, nor light or lacking in body
a) Length of body / Height at withers : Square build, which means
that the horizontal line of the back is perpendicular to the vertical
line passing through the point of shoulder and to the other vertical
line passing through the point of buttock, thus defining a square
b) Depth of brisket / Height at withers: The chest reaches to
the elbows. Depth of chest is half the height at withers.
c) Length of nose bridge / Length of head: Length of nose bridge
in relation to skull should be 1 : 2 (measured from tip of nose
to inner corner of eye or, respectively, inner corner of eye to
Size and Weight
Height at the withers: Dogs 57-63cm
Weight Dogs approx 30kg when at 60cm at withers
Females approx 25kg when at 56cm at withers
BEHAVIOUR / TEMPERAMENT: The
Boxer should be fearless self-confident, calm and equable. Temperament
is of the utmost importance and requires careful attention. Devotion
and loyalty towards his master and his entire household, his watchfulness
and self-assured courage as a defender are famous. He is harmless
with his family but distrustful of strangers. Happy and friendly
in play, yet fearless in a serious situation. Easy to train on
account of his willingness to obey, his pluck and courage, natural
keenness and scent capability. Undemanding and clean, he is just
as agreeable and appreciated in the family circle as he is as
a guard, companion and working dog. His character is trustworthy,
with no guile or cunning, even in old age.
HEAD: This gives the Boxer his
characteristic look. Must be in good proportion to the body and
appear neither too light nor too heavy. Muzzle should be as broad
and powerful as possible. The harmony of the head depends on the
balance between muzzle and skull. From whichever direction the
head is viewed, from front above or sideways, the muzzle must
always be in the right proportion to the skull i.e. it must never
appear too small. It should be clean, not showing any wrinkle.
However natural folds are formed in the cranial region when alerted.
From root of nose, folds are always indicated running in a downward
direction on both sides. The dark mask is confined to the muzzle
and must be in sharp contrast to the colour of the head so that
the face does not appear sombre.